\t\t\t\t\t \t\t\t\t\t \t\t\t\t\t While the sad, bad news is that wine consumption is dwindling in Argentina, there\u2019s a chink of positive news that a humble family of grapes is exciting both seasoned drinkers and occasional or novice tipplers.\u00a0<\/p>\n
The stat that Argentines would drink 98 liters per capita in the 1960s is repeatedly wheeled out when blaming the younger generations who choose to drink less or \u2014 worse! \u2014 no alcohol for this economically catastrophic decline in consumption. Argentina is, after all, the world\u2019s fifth-biggest wine producer, and there\u2019s a general feeling in the industry that there has been a loss of support as well as something of a loosening of the embrace of cultural heritage.<\/p>\n
Those good old days hark back to a time when in fact consumers for the most part didn\u2019t know what they were consuming. In 1977, Bodega Humberto Canale in R\u00edo Negro province gave \u2018Semill\u00f3n\u2019 an identity for the first time by labeling it with the variety\u2019s name, while \u2018Malbec\u2019 was commercially registered three years earlier. Ignorance of bottle contents was rife, and, given that the population was likely often blotto, it hardly mattered.<\/p>\n
Today wine consumption is at just under 16 liters per person, a sad, bad historic low, and the favorite red continues to lead the pack, both at home and in wine glasses around the world. But inching its way forward is the Criolla grape family, with a new origin story worth sharing.<\/p>\n
The Criolla origins Rather than a single grape, Criolla is a family of varieties that arose in the Americas after European vines brought by Spanish colonizers naturally crossbred in the 16th century. First introduced to Argentina in 1553 to produce wine for Catholic Mass, these grapes laid the foundations of the country\u2019s mainstream wine industry.<\/p>\n
The Criolla family has several members, including Criolla Grande, Criolla Chica, Cereza, Pedro Gim\u00e9nez and the renowned Torront\u00e9s, to choose from; think of it like selecting which citrus juice you want \u2014 orange, pink grapefruit or lime. So, yes, there are similarities, but the passion for telling Argentina\u2019s winemaking story is what\u2019s driving the grape group\u2019s popularity.\u00a0<\/p>\n
These light-skinned red and aromatic whites tend to have lower alcohol and have proven time and again that they can make top-quality wines, as well as make excellent pairing companions.<\/p>\n
In San Juan, Cara Sur winery has long been discovering old vines that are more than 100 years old, nurturing them into valuable production since 2011. The wines made by Pancho Bugallo, Sebasti\u00e1n Zuccardi, Marcela Manini and Nuria A\u00f1o Gargiulo are terroir-driven, exploring the nuances of Calingista Valley and reviving both the ancestral grapes, such as Moscatel Tinto and Criolla Chica, and old vineyards.<\/p>\n
Further north in the Quebrada de Humahuaca in Jujuy, wine grower Mat\u00edas Michelini teamed up with El Bayeh\u2019s Daniel Manzur \u2014\u00a0 a champion of caring for old vines \u2014 for a special project. They realized that many families in the elevated region grew grapes at home to make hooch for Carnaval. So, they put out an ad on the radio, asking for the vecinos to call up and let them know the possible quantities they had, thereby discovering just how many vines existed in this highly elevated corner of Argentina. The upshot is El Bayeh Peque\u00f1os Parceleros, in production since 2019.<\/p>\n
Since the revival began, one of the versatile heritage varieties has been granted quality status by the Instituto Nacional de Vitivinicultura (INV). Criolla Chica \u2014 known as List\u00e1n Prieto in Europe and most commonly grown in the Canary Islands \u2014 joined the INV\u2019s cast of illustrious reds in August 2024. The institute has registered more than 70 types of Criolla planted on more than 300 hectares around the country.<\/p>\n
The story of Criollas now brings together the past with the future, and now many around the world are reevaluating other native strains. In Uco Valley, Mendoza, husband-and-wife team Juanfa Su\u00e1rez and Cecilia Dur\u00e1n make three Criolla wines at Roca Madre. A professional trumpeter who has played with bands such as Onda Vaga, he\u2019s now the fourth generation to turn his hand to the grape-growing industry.<\/p>\n
Rocamadre\u2019s Juanfa Su\u00e1rez and Cecilia Dur\u00e1n
\nThey started making Criolla in 2019 from a 60-year-old vine in Vista Flores, looking for a light red for the portfolio. Criolla, he claims, seemed ideal due to its history, cultural and heritage value.<\/p>\n
\u201cLast year we planted half a hectare of Criolla Chica in a special place called Jard\u00edn de Piedras. What\u2019s new about this planting is its high density and location in the prestigious Paraje Altamira; that wine will be released next year,\u201d he tells me.<\/p>\n
Sof\u00eda Pescarmona, of Bodega Lagarde, agrees. In their case, for Lagarde Criolla, the grapes come from an organic vineyard in the Uco Valley, where they found \u201cthe freshness, purity and expression we were looking for in this project\u201d. The result, she says, is a wine with \u201cenormous personality yet very easy to enjoy: fresh, light, vibrant, and with great gastronomic versatility. It has the freshness and approachability of a ros\u00e9, but the subtle structure of a light red. That\u2019s why it works exceptionally well with fish and vegetables, as well as with meat and charcuterie.\u201d<\/p>\n
Beyond its characteristics, Pescarmona describes this wine as an \u201cexciting\u201d project: rescuing Argentine winemaking heritage and demonstrating that Criolla grapes can give rise to high-quality, contemporary wines deeply connected to local identity.\u00a0<\/p>\n
\u201cIt\u2019s a way of looking toward the future, without losing sight of our roots.\u201d<\/p>\n
Five Criolla to try: Here are some ideas to try next time you\u2019re after a light red that\u2019s an alternative to Pinot Noir or Grenache:<\/p>\n
El Bayeh Peque\u00f1os Parceleros, Jujuy Cara Sur Parcela La Totora (Criolla Chica), San Juan Bodega Kindgard Sacha Tigre Criolla Quebrade\u00f1a, Jujuy Roca Madre Criolla Blanca (Pedro Gim\u00e9nez), Mendoza Bodega Lagarde Criolla (Criolla Grande), Mendoza \t\t\t\t\t \t\t\t\t\t\t<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
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