It’s been a rum old year for the restaurant business. Bums on seats are down, as, too, are the numbers of tourists flying in as the blue dollar bonanza bubble has burst while menu prices have skyrocketed. It’s a tough economic environment out there, and if it’s not hyperinflation, Milei’s shock therapy will do it for you. Not exactly a blend conducive to concluding 2025 on a high. Despite the rollercoaster ride of ups and downs, there have been positives in the shape of awards and accolades along the way to boost our beloved and hard-working gastronomy scene.
While some doubted that a second Michelin guide would come to light, you have to remember that a deal was struck with the French publisher; the public money had long been allocated and the fees paid up. Some 80 restaurants located in Buenos Aires and Mendoza featured in the 2025 online guide (we, as in Argentina, didn’t pay for a hard copy), up almost 10 percent on the November 2023 one, including three establishments receiving first-time stars — Crizia in Palermo Hollywood, Riccitelli Bistró in Las Compuertas, and Angélica Cocina Maestra in Agrelo, the latter two in Mendoza. To date, the Argentine constellation shines brightly with nine one-star venues (all maintained their stars from 2023), and 10 overall, including two-star Aramburu. Meanwhile, those that received recommendations hang their red-and-white plaque with pride (although probably inside the establishment to ensure no nasty nimble fingers swipe it).
Despite talking up identity in its five-point remit, Michelin still woefully underrepresents steakhouses. Yet one continues to make the headlines: Palermo’s Parrilla Don Julio not only cracked the top 10 of World’s 50 Best Restaurants this year, it also topped the rankings of the World’s 101 Best Steak Restaurants, and in December ranked third in Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants. This month owner Pablo Rivero was also named an Influential Personality in Culture by City Hall. A veritable string of hits. While 50 Best watchers thought that wine director Martín Bruno would take home the best sommelier prize, it was awarded to another Argentine, Maximiliano Pérez, keeping the accolade national.
After being shunned for a second year by Michelin, Gran Dabbang also fell out of the 50 Best list for the first time in several years. A tough year for egos, but given this particular restaurant’s concept and ability to roll with the punches, tables have generally been full and it’s been a relatively decent year. Wages and bills are up to date — they buy my ready-to-drink bottled gin and tonic and pay the day they receive the invoice — staff rest when they are supposed to, the menu is as delicious as ever and those are all key factors when defining success, in my opinion.
Gran Dabbang. Courtesy of Gran Dabbang. Buenos Aires In total, 14 Argentine establishments made the cut in Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurant awards, which spans a top 100, and the spread was slightly more nationwide than usual, including El Papagayo from Córdoba as a re-entry and the one-starred Azafrán from Mendoza.
New openings
As the year drew to a close, Buenos Aires saw a small wave of unusually luxurious openings that culminated with three in November: Casa Palanti in Barrio Parque, Santé in Puerto Madero and Somma in Palermo. Other notable lux newbies include Presencia, whose substantial investment included installing a lift in order to access the first-floor restaurant and whose kitchen is led by Rodrigo Da Costa. The common denominator between these four is their architecture. The former, and the most notable esthetically speaking, known as la Casa Circular, was built in 1922 by Palacio Barolo’s architect Mario Palanti. An extremely grand restoration that spotlights its glory days, one-starred executive chef Juan Ventureyra serves up delicious whole Cornish hen and other elegant comfort dishes from this beautiful space, provided you can get past the gorilla dressed as a doorman on the front gate.
Somma, meanwhile, offers privileged vistas of the Hipódromo and 360º views over Palermo thanks to its prime position on the rooftop of the Ola building on Avenida Dorrego. Here, bartender Daniel Bieber prepares cocktails such as The Wonka, and this is sure to become the place for sundowners this summer. As for Santé, if you’re taking the ferry to Uruguay this summer, the brasserie’s location behind the Buquebus terminal makes it a pre- or post- voyage haven for a glass of rosé and a scrumptious burger.
Other notable openings included former Las Flores chef Santiago Pérez’s Mambo in Villa Crespo, a more comfortable and fixed abode for Orei Ramen Bar in Belgrano, Facundo Kelemen’s Bordó, Polish artist Marta Wajda’s eponymous establishment and Lucila Rodriguez’s Burdo, all in Colegiales, and a welcome return to the burners for Ajo Negro founder Gaspar Natiello with Silvino in Chacarita.
Bordó Silvino It hasn’t all been a bed of roses, though. Restaurants to shutter for one final time included La Locanda in Recoleta, Franca in Villa Crespo and Sal in Palermo. In September we also said goodbye to Germán Torres, the pioneering baker and founder of Salvaje bakery, who passed away aged 40.
In the drinks world, Tres Monos continues to hold the title of South America’s best bar, when it ranked 10 in World’s 50 Best Bars at a ceremony held in Hong Kong last October. With CoChinChina and Florería Atlántico ranking at 26 and 90 respectively, and the new addition of 2025 opening Victor Audio Bar in Palermo at 87, Buenos Aires continues to be a player on the global cocktail stage. Florería Atlántico, owned by Tato Giovannoni and Aline Vargas, also caught the eye of City Hall last October when it was recognised as a space of encounter between culture and neighborhood identity.
As for wine, several of the big names have once again been awarded with top marks from wine critics. El Enemigo’s As Bravas 2018 from Bodega Aleanna and Zuccardi Finca Piedra Infinita Gravascal 2021 — both Malbec — clocked up 100 points this year from the Wine Advocate.